A Still from Stanley Kubrick's A Clockwork Orange.
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Happy 36th Anniversary!!
Great to celebrate your anniversary in Japan!
You two always looks wonderful together.
Like you, I would love to get married with someone to be my life with
To Corinne,
Happy Mother's Day yesterday!
You are my mom in Canada!
I'm really lucky to be a part of Hotel Kits and Island Inn for 20 years!!
Your 2 suitcases safely arrived this morning.
It's nice to hear that you will enjoy your stay in Fukushima.
You are sooooo energetic!
On Friday, if you arrive in Shin-Osaka by Shinkansen around 18:30,
I can pick you up at the station and we can go home together.
Or if you are back before that, the direction is as follows.
JR: Shin-Osaka → (Amagsaki) → Takarazuka
Shin-Osaka to Amagasaki (11min.), change train, Amagasak to
Takarazuka (19min.)
* usually track 15 or 16 from JR Shin-Osaka station.
* some train goes directly from Shin-Osaka to Takarazuka
* my mom can pick you up at Takarazuka station.
Please let us know when you will arrive in Shin-Osaka. Love, Toshiko
Greetings from Aizu
Toshiko, thanks for the best wishes! We will email you from Nagano regarding when we will arrive in Osaka. Once we have got our tickets we will know travel time.
Glad the suitcases arrived so quickly. Japan is so organized.
We had a great day yesterday seeing the castle and the samuri training headquarters and
a lovely herb garden.
It is raining now so we will go to the onsen for a few hours.
See you soon Love Corinne
14 May at 10:30 via BlackBerry ·
Patrick James Dunn Even better when you don't have to climb out of bed to go to work beforehand! That is actually what "retited" means!
The following message is composed of a number of different installments, (Think of it as a serialized novel in The New Yorker. Editorial staff there are always clamouring for my travelogues, as you can well imagine, Dear Reader!), composed over the last two days here in Aizu-Wakamatsu Town! Fondestos and Cheers, Patrizzio!
Monday, May 14th:
Morning:
Up at just after 5:00am. It was so light out that I thought that I had slept in until 9:00ish. Didn't think that I'd be able to go back to sleep but didn't take long before I was back in the Land of Nod. Next thing I knew it was 8:30am. Quick showers and dressed to go out to find a spot for breakfast. When we looked at buffet-style service in hotel dining room we decided to give it a try. Glad we did as it was a wonderful spread. Everything from traditional fruit, dry cereal and yogurt to sausages, smoked salmon cutlets and eggs, together with a huge assortment of Japanese breakfast dishes: steamed rice, hot soups, an assortment of pickles, wasabi, as well as croissants and bread rolls. Coffee was from a Saeco machina which ground fresh beans for each individual cup. I pushed the "grande" button a number of times let me tell you, going back three times to have more of the wonderful repast! All of this for ¥500=$6.28!
Cora Lee read The Daily Yomiuri, national/local news plus insert from the LA Times World Report, while I followed Anna Resnikov on the streets of Odessa and over the steppes of the Ukraine. After the delicious and sustaining meal we returned to our room to pack a few items of clothing in case we decided to visit one of the many mineral spas here and then bought a one-day tourist bus pass, (¥500), at the front desk and then walked immediately across the street to Stop #10 to wait for the small green bus Haikara-san, "H" bus, to do a loop of the city. Our driver was a woman in full conductors uniform, large hat, white gloves and all.
Spent the first hour riding around this fairly small, preficture city, to obtain a bit of an overview, scoping out which museums, temples and the like we would try to visit. First stop was for a self-guided tour of Tsunga-Jo Castle, built over 600 years ago, partially destroyed in 1860's during the Boshin Civil War, when there was a terrible conflict between the samurai of Aizu and the Meiji government. The age of the samurai drew to a close here as those who fought as samurai were defeated. The castle itself was almost completely demolished in 1874. Declared a national historical site in 1934, it was re-built in 1965. The castle is surrounded by an impressive moat and these retaining walls and those of the surrounding fortifications, are simply massive, absolutely stunning in terms of the size and finished, dressed surface of huge boulders which make up the faces. The inside of the castle tower functions as a museum and there is a a fascinating display of armour and helmets on one of the floors. Can only describe latter as models for ones used by Star Troopers in Star Wars, ones here being black like Darth Vader's, except these are adorned with wonderful plumage, pheasant tail-feathers, in some cases, I believe. Superb, panoramic, 360 degree views from the top of the tower. Snow-capped mountains to the north east are the peaks we can see form our hotel room. Only criticism I would make of display notes is that most were in Japanese, as one would expect. We didn't presume that they would be in English or other languages as well but if a date had been provided, in a script westerns could read, this would have given viewer some historical context. Nonetheless, worth visiting under any circumstances.
Early afternoon:
Back to the hop-on-hop-off bus stop to ride to Fukushima Museum, licking a tasty soft ice-cream cone on way, only to find that place is closed on Monday! Hence the subject line message! Next bus just drove up so will have to finish this later!
Late afternoon, 5:00pm:
Back in our room at the Hotel New Palace. We are not more than a pleasant 20-30 minutes away from TsurugjoCastle and indeed, walked into the grounds on Sunday, after we had unpacked, as we wanted to stretch our legs before dinner. Both of us are pleasantly tired after a full day of sightseeing. Given your NY experience, I'm sure you can understand although I don't think we've done enough walking to cause tendonitis! Hope you haven't sone anything serious, especially with your coming trip to meet your son! Trust that part goes well
At any rate, once next bus came along we hopped on and then alighted at Stop #1 the Aizuwakamatsu Station to book our reserved seats for the trip to Nagano on Wednesday. That done, we boarded the next bus, this time the Akabe, "A" line which runs clockwise around the town, as this was a quicker way to Stop #21, Oyakuen, originally built as a villa for the lord of the region. In 1696 it became a garden representative of the typical Japanese style gardens in the Tohoku region. Again, like the castle, it was left in a state of ruin after the Boshin War. In 1932 it was designated by the state as a Nationally Renowned Garden. Once repairs were effected it eventually became the beautiful garden we wandered today.
If you have ever been to the Nitobe Garden at UBC you may well have some idea of the style of this garden. However, there is much more water here and the walkways wind around the shore, more or less, of the large pond/tiny lake, in the centre/heart of the garden. In fact, one of the delightful aspects is the presence of huge carp, Koi, I believe, gigantic goldfish, which one can feed for 100 yen. Causes quite a commotion, let me tell you, when you throw a handful of dried pellets into the water. Very peaceful, more than serene, other than the feeding-frenzy, so a lovely time on the shaded paths, the sun being very warm by this time, close to 1:30pm. Even snapped a picture of Cora Lee, meditating, upturned palms, Om, Om, Oming away on a secluded bench. For a moment I thought she was actually levitating and was going to sell both her bus and rail passes to pay for our 36th wedding anniversary dinner later that evening! Astral travel is far cheaper and certainly quicker!
After a refreshing, complimentary cup of herbal tea, brewed from herbs grown in the herb garden on site, we walked back to the bus stop to ride to Stop #30, Aizu Bukeyashi, the Samurai Residence, which, according to the brochure provided, occupies an area of seven acres. Most of the buildings in which the Samurai once lived burned down, again, during the Boshin Civil War. It took two years to reconstruct the residence of the principal retainer of the Aizu Clan and was completed around 1982. The residence has 38 rooms and these were recreated as they would have been during the Edo period. From Wikipedia:
"The Edo Period (江戸時代 Edo jidai), or Tokugawa period (徳川時代 Tokugawa jidai), is a division of the history of Japan when it was ruled by the shoguns of the Tokugawa family, running from 1603 to 1868. Characterized by strict social orders, isolationist foreign policies, and an increase in both environmental protection and the creation and popular enjoyment of arts and culture, Japanese society during this period was controlled by the Tokugawa shogunate and the country's 300 regional Daimyo."
The rooms within the residence include furniture, household effects, screens, clothing, arms and armour, etc. All of the rooms, viewed from walkways which encircle the residence itself, built on pylons to about waist level, were endlessly fascinating but I was drawn to three in particular:
The Lavatory: Directly underneath the toilet one finds a wooden box, on wheels, filled with sand. This could be pulled out from underneath the foundations so that staff could check the health of the Samurai!
The Rice Cleaning Mill: Approximately 190 years old, it was brought from Shirakawa City. Powered by water it has 16 stone mills and could pound 960 Kg of rice every day. The mill is still in working order, for display purposes only, although today it is powered by electricity. A wonderful wooden mechanism, a central drive shaft with "teeth" protruding along its length, to correspond to the vertical poles set above stone receptacles counting hemp or jute bags of rice, all powered by two large water wheels, fed from a nearbye stream. (In fact the town is criss-crossed with streams and one often walks beside small open channels or above metal grated ones on the sidewalks.) As the shaft turned, each pole would be raised when contact was made between its "tooth" and the one on the vertical pole. I assume that the poles were off-set, to rise and fall at different intervals, so as not to place undue stress on the drive mechanism.
The Kitchen: While it contained examples of food preparation utensils, stoves and the like, what was perhaps the most interesting aspect of this extremely large room was the support structure of the roof. Unlike the finished family and guest rooms, the ceiling here is exposed and one can see the massive beams needed to support the heavy snowfall.
In one of the separate buildings on the site, the Ceremony House, there is a museum in which one finds a recreation of the the scene in which the family of the Principal Retainer, Tanomo Saigo, committed ritual suicide. He left his home for battle during the Boshin Civil War and his wife and children feared he would not return. Quite a moving scene, for many reasons, of course, not the least being that the three children were young girls, one little more than a child.
Evening:
Short wait at the bus stop, enjoying the late afternoon sun and the lovely breeze. Once back in our room, #407, Cora Lee had a quick shower and then lay down for a power nap while I continued to record our day. Close to 7:00pm Sleeping Beauty stirred and I opened our last Water Wheel, Bendigo, 2008 Petit Verdot, 15.5%, to toast ourselves on our 36th wedding anniversary. While I had a shower she scoped out two possible restaurants, one which served a local dish, some sort of pork cutlet, the other a restaurant specializing in French cuisine. For some reason, unknown to us as of this writing, we have noticed, in our short time here, quite a few businesses, stores, bars, eating establishments, etc., with French names. At any rate, once downstairs, we asked directions for latter and set off down the street in front of the hotel, Noguchi Street, to walk the two or three blocks the young woman at Reception had indicated on the small, take-away map she provided.
Whether we misunderstood or misread her directions, we could find no trace of the restaurant. Poked our heads into a place with lights on but Cora Lee nixed this Mom and Pop joint, without any other customers at the two tables which occupied the single small room, using the fact that the menu didn't have any pictures on it so that at least we could point to what we wanted, as an excuse to beat a hasty retreat. I was game to try but she was insistent on something better for our anniversary celebration.
As things turned out, she regretted this decision, sort of, as next place we stumbled across was quite a colourful, politely speaking, (some would call it a dive), sake tavern. Before entering I suggested we stop in for a quick drink and ask directions. (I assume you have already guessed, Dear Reader, that we spent the rest of the evening there!) Once through the sliding wooden door you face a short bar with nine stools along its length, the only empty ones closest to the doorway. Our appearance caused quite a stir from the four or five other customers sitting on the other stools, and the jolly, rotund barkeep. He spoke a bit of English and welcomed us in, causing all sorts of laughter from the regulars, by their behaviour and interplay with the proprietor. I wondered to Cora Lee if they were eating deep-fried cigarette butts as the numerous ashtrays were literally piled high, mounded with their nicotine corpses!
With gestures and broken English we conveyed the fact that it was our 36th wedding anniversary and that we would like to celebrate it with some of the finest sake that was available behind the counter. Cheers of congratulations erupted when the regs learned of the occasion, followed by more cheers when the bartender selected a bottle, the brand being the name of his tavern, and brewed locally. (Suehiro Aizumusume Kokken, I was to learn later. Aizu-Wakamatsu is well known for its fine sake because of its pure mountain spring water and excellent rice. Thanks to Cora Lee the Tour Guide to Fukushima Prefecture. Site of tsunami/nuclear disaster is only about 200K northeast of here.) We both found the sake very tasty, a very pleasant drop and the small ornamental flask, (filled from a two litre bottle, kept in the large sliding glass door refrigerator behind the counter, the typical bottle size we've seen everywhere in stores and bars), was soon empty. We both prefer chilled sake to that which is heated but that being said, Cora Lee wanted to switch to white wine. I doubted that such would be available but to our surprise the barman produced a bottle of Japanese dry white, 12.5%, which was quite palatable. However, I think we both preferred the sake in the end so I insisted on sharing the bottle with our new best friends and that helped empty the bottle, as you can imagine. Cora Lee whispered that she thought that our drinking companions would hardly know what they were tasting as everyone seemed pretty loaded. Extremely friendly and welcoming in that smashed, alcohol fueled glow.
After he had poured more drinks, the barman proceeded to preform a few magic tricks. He was really quite good at all the conjuring, from making coins disappear to picking out a given card from the deck. One we liked the most was him disgorging handfuls of playing cards from his mouth. He did this all with such good humour and self-deprecation, even using a translation app on his smart phone to explain things, to us, that he received genuine rounds of applause from each and everyone of us, although, presumably, these barflies had seen it all before! When Cora Lee uttered an amazed "Wow" at one of his feats of magic, my neighbour was convulsed with laughter and it became his chosen word for the rest of the evening, uttering it, at times, for no other reason that to hear the sound of it. Of course, we toasted one another, from then on, with "Wow" rather than Kampei!
One thing led to another and we ordered some chicken and pork yakatori and then my neighbour insisted on me trying his drink of choice, Shōchū, a distilled beverage, typically 25% alcohol by volume, more than double the strength of the sake and wine we were imbibing. Mixed with water and ice-cubes, it was okay but not really something I wanted to drink a lot of as the taste wasn't all that interesting. Seemed more like what one would drink to get drunk quickly and cheaply.
Couple further down the bar then sent us a tofu and egg dish as a present. Very tasty again, we were surprised at the the delicious and well-presented dishes which came from such an unlikely setting. When I asked for some single malt the barkeep brought out a few pedestrian labels which I wasn't really keen on. Shortly thereafter, one of the two business men in suits, (salary or company men), who had walked in after we arrived, had the barkeep bring out two of his private stash, I assume, and insisted I have a drink. I chose a 25 year old Bowmore, one I'd never had or even seen before. The other was yet another 25 year old, a Balvenie, again one I was not familiar with. I toasted the generous man and enjoyed the wonderful drop.
One last round of another special sake, chosen by our helpful tavern master, and most of our new mates stumbled out the door, well wishing as they departed. By this time it was close to 11:00pm and time for us to go as well. Earlier on I had noticed a small, attractive tattoo, Japanese character of some sort, on one of my mate's fingers and when I pointed to it and said, jokingly, "Yakusa", (Japanese Mafia), he laughed, stood and pulled up his shirt to reveal the tattoo which covered his entire back. The Shōchū Drinker with the Dragon Tattoo! He insisted he was not Yakusa although a certain sadness in his demeanor suggested a sorrow of some sort, and when we stood to leave, he accompanied us out the door and embraced me warmly before we waved goodbye. Our congenial host came outside, as well, and we thanked him for his delightful hospitality and the full evening's entertainment! Total bill was 7,000 yen, $87.85 and I tipped him 1,000 yen, $12.55. Pretty good night out, all around. A fascinating experience of local culture with colourful characters, one that I relish as it allows a bit of insight into lives that are really, in essential ways, not so different from our own.
Short, pleasant stroll back to Hotel New Palace, night air cool and refreshing after the closeness of the bar, although I must say that the smoking was not really noticeable, as I'd feared it might be when we'd first entered the Five Star establishment and noticed the burial mound ashtrays. Back in our room where we didn't do much but brush and floss before turning out reading lights, not even a page or a screen between us, as it had been a full, long day, on the go for most of it.
To be continued...
Hi TNT!
Great snap of Mya! Soccer Woman in the making!!! Have realaly been enjoying Japan. Weather has been wonderful so sightseeing has been more than enjoyable. If anything, have had to open window to our room here as am not able to understand heat/fan function on thermostat. Wonderful and cool is the night mountain air and as only a duvet for cover I would otherwise be far too warm. Cora Lee, on the other hand is happy to be snug, beneath layer upon layer! Just about to catch a taxi for the short ride to station where we will catch a local train to Koriyama to transfer to Bullet Train to Omiya and then another train to Nagano. Fondestos and Cheers, Patrizzio!
Hi Raymond!
Thanks fro all the news from home and abroad. Don't worry about getting in shape on my account. I'll need to join the latte crowd by the time I'm back. Miss the regular exercise although I must say I'm quite liking indulging myself! Have certainly been enjoying Japan.
Hi Daniel!
Lovely to hear from you. Have certainly been enjoying Japan. Weather has been wonderful so sightseeing has been more than pleasureable. If anything, have had to open window to our room here as am not able to understand heat/fan function on thermostat!
Hi Zircon!
Thanks fro all the travel news. When do you leave? With Jan?
Hi Giggster!
Glad you enjoyed the Temple. Aussie Rules, Mate, Footie, not Rugger! Weather looks grand in Vancouver. No wind. What am I doing here?
Hi Kathleen!
Trust you are both well. Sorry I've not written sooner to thank you, once again, for all your wonderful hospitality and marvellous generosity. Made it to Sydney but had to wait until 3:00pm! Long story. Will save it for later!!!
Hi Nadienka!
Glad to hear that you are in regular contact with Clan Sutherland? Trust you and your family are well. Hello to Anna Maria Tremonte and Rudi Rudenheimer!!! Sorry I've not written sooner.
Hello Ragin'!
Sounds like the Latte Peleton will soon transform itself into the Beer and BBQ Crowd! Sounds wonderful to me as I have been quite enjoying pampering myself of late and even shudder at the thought of the Stanley Park Hill! My feet never leave the ground now!!! Buona Fortuna with prep work on the Inside Passageo! Apparently Agneta has just purchased a house in Guaybitos so perhaps Whirlygig and I can sign on when you sail down to Sayulito, spitting on the grandes all the way south! Otherwise, trust you are well.
Hello Champagne and O Susannah!
Trust you are both well. Rail passes work like a charm! Travel is comfortable and very efficient.
Hi Lord Chardonnay!
Trust you are well. How did move go?
Hi Legs!
Trust you are well. How goes your busy life?
Hi Fingare and Digitale!
Trust you are both well. How go your busy lives?
Greetings from the JR Bullet Train!
Hi Flash!
Trust you and your Geisha Goils are more than fine! How go your busy lives? Rail passes work like a charm! Bought them before we left home. Travel is comfortable and very, very efficient. One lines up, on the platform, to board the particular car indicated on your reservation ticket. All this indicated on platform surface and electronic schedule boards. As well, at certain stations, squads of cleaners board the train about ten minutes or so before it departs to give it a thorough going over. One of the cleaners stands by the door with a plastic trash bag and bows to each passenger as that person puts their garbage in the receptacle. Once the Dust Busters are aboard the train doors close until they emerge, the bathrooms swabbed, the upholsery brushed and the chrome polished, one imagines. Lining up next to the exit door their crew leader stands in front of them and then they all bow, in unison. Quite a show! Still, trains are spotless. One of the endlessly fascinating aspects of a truly remarkable culture.
Another example comes to mind and occurred the day after we arrived in Tokyo when I visited a huge electronics department store to buy a sim card for my iPad. Was there just after it opened and was almost immediately accompanied to counter where I could make my purchase. Had to walk past twenty or thirty other employees, (Canada's stores could learn from this service model!), all standing at their respective counters/posts, and each one bowed to me as I walked past. I felt like Royalty, never mind the Millionaires! However, think I might have a permanent "rictus" grin on my face once we are back at The Island Inn. Everyone is so damned polite that you end up mimicking said behaviour and thanking people for thanking you. This usually involves two or three people as often first person approached has no English, "Sorry, wait please," and then another speaker arrives and on it goes! Must say that we really have had little difficulty, in spite of our inability to speak Japanese, as everyone is keen to help and genuinely friendly.
It goes without say that we have been enjoying Japan. Weather here has been wonderful, perhaps slightlly warmer than Vancouver from the weather reports we've heard about from friends, so sightseeing has been more than pleasureable. If anything, have had to open window to our room here as am not able to understand heat/fan function on thermostat. Wonderful and cool is the night mountain air and as only a duvet for cover I would otherwise be far too warm. Cora Lee, on the other hand, is happy to be snug, beneath layer upon layer! About an hour ago caught a taxi for the short ride to station where we boarded a local train to Koriyama to transfer to Bullet Train to Omiya and then another train to Nagano. Whizzing past rice paddies and mixed vegetable fields, as well as what looks like sustainable logging of small, managed forests. Faster than a speeding bullet is the Bullet Train! Fondestos and Cheers, Samurai Cora Lee, (She now uses her sword to slice all her credit cards in half! Shoes are next!), and Il Conduttore!
Hi Kjell!
Trust you are fine! How goes your busy life?
Hi Jaap!
Trust you and your family are well! How go your busy lives?
Hi Todd!
Trust you are well. How goes your busy life?
Hi Marilyn and Big Al!
Trust you are both well. How go your busy lives?
Hi Lady Patrizia and Sir James!
Trust you are both well. How go your busy lives?
Hi Ski and Ronaldo!
Trust you are both well. How go your busy lives?
Hi Yien and Mike!
Trust you are both well. How go your busy lives?
Hello Winnipeg!
Trust everyone is well. How go your busy lives? Is winter over?
Hello Proud Grandparents!
Trust everyone is well. Congratulations to Steph and Will on the birth of Baby Hazel Emily! How go your busy lives now!
Hello Queenslanders all!
Trust everyone is well. Sorry I've not been in touch sooner! How go your busy lives now that you area almost a month-free of the Caknuckleheads!
Hello Saveeta and Jenne!
Trust you are both well. How go your busy lives? Time near Bendigo was very pleasant but we certainly missed Darwin temperatures! Delighted to be in Japan even if travel is not quite as easy as in Australia.
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