Chloe, your dad and I will help. Mom
Possible get together??
Hi Corinne and Patrick,
Hope you had a wonderful winter. I cannot remember what you were doing this year, but I am sure it involved warm weather!!
I
have just arrived in Vancouver after a 19 day cruise from Florida,
through the Panama Canal and up the west coast of Central America,
Mexico and the US.
I am here visiting for a few days and
would love to get together for coffee or a drink or something. I am
trying to keep up the walking regime that I did on the ship, so will be
heading over to Granville Island at some point to enjoy that part of the
city. Are you around in the next few days? Friday and Saturday are
currently booked, but Sunday and Monday are wide open, so hope to hear
what may work for you.
Best, Ann
Hi Ann, Patrick and I are in Japan
won't be back until May 31 st. we left home on March 5 for a week in
Hong Kong and then 2 mons in Australia. leave for Osaka this am to stay
with a friend for the weekend. Sorry to miss you! we will probably be
at Falcon in August maybe see you there? thanks for getting in touch, Best Corinne
Patrick James Dunn
Better hide it away as next time we're in town, I just might nab it for myself. Then I'd be the one with all the Babes crowding around! Nana sends her love. We just had a wonderful dinner at a tiny spot in Yadanaka, close to the mountains where 1998 Winter Olympics were held. Tomorrow we will take a short bus ride from the local railway station, only five minutes from our small, taditional Japanese inn, and then a 30 minute walk to Joshin-Etsu National Park where one can see monkeys, Japanese Macaques, using the hot mineral spas. Had a wonderful hot tub ourselves, shortly after checking in. Our inn has it own spa and use of them comes with staying. Will see Toshi this coming Friday when we take the train to Osaka. Love, Nana and Poppa-San!
Patrick James Dunn Living Life on the Kimono Trail, Baby Cakes! You should see Nana in her kimono-like dressing gown one wears to the spa tub. She looks like a Geisha Goil!
Ayn P Nana would make a great Geisha! Except for the life of servitude part, she's wrinkle her nose up at that and then curl up in a chair to read.
Patrick James Dunn
She's curled up on her futon on the tatami mat flooring as we exchange email. I'll have to rouse her shortly as we plan to go for a quick hot tub before Japanese style breakfast at 8:00am. Pleased that I was able to get up off the floor this morning without any difficulty. Only complaint is that we both miss the heated toilette shower seats we've encountered everywhere else we've stayed so far. Funny how quickly one adapts to something one finds strange to begin with and then misses immediately when not availbale. Inn here is an old style dwelling, part of its charm, of course, so fixtures are pretty basic. Love Poppa "We don't need no Stinkin' Shower Toilette Seats" San!
Ayn P Too bad you've completed the bathroom renovations at the Island Inn...I will email Dusty and tell him to begin demolition!
Patrick James Dunn
Forgot to mention she is feeling better. We had a lovely meal at a small place but a few minutes up the road from where we are staying. Everything made by an elderly man while we sat at the counter: rice balls with seaweed, stuffed with salmon and green onions; half a small baked "American" eggplant with some sort of sweet potatoe sauce, we think; wonderful boneless chicken Tempura and two large, almost custrad like pieces of tofu in a yummy broth sprinkled with thinly sliced green onions. I had a large bottle of Sapporo beer but Nana stayed with a small Coke for her tummy's sake. Chef's wife, our waitress, presented us with a newspaper page sized sheet detailing the family's Samurai history when we left. The Sisterhood is truly an international, not-so- secret society! Walls of the place itself are covered with pictures of Suomo wrestlers, both prints and photogrpahs, historical and present day, so this motif provided quite a decor. Had to hustle Cora Lee out the door before she started to re-arrange some of the posters and other hangings! The chef, though kindly looking, had quite a few sharp knives at his disposal from what we'd glimpsed of his food preparation!
Patrick James Dunn
I have already thought of stealing one from last place we stay at in Tokyo, (wrapped in pool towels accidentally "borrowed" from hotels in Melbourne and Darwinto), to bring it back to the Island Inn to install in the guest bathroom after Chloe moves into the Co-op! For the next round of Japanese boarders. I'm reminded of the stories about the Russain soldiers at the end of WW II, many illiterate farm boys, who removed light bulbs and taps from buildings and homes they looted, to re-attach them to their walls and ceilings when back in their home villages, to be genuinely puzzled that they didn't produce water and light once installed!
Greetings from Yamanouchi Town, Yudanaka Spa!
Hi Brenda Louise!
Sorry to hear from you from Emergency! Trust diagnosis isn't serious and potentially incapacitating, especially in light of your coming trip. You and Cora Lee can compare notes, on pre-travel ailments, her foot, and travel bugs, see below, from the Recovery Ward! Arrived here yesterday to stay in a traditional Japanese inn, sleeping on tatami mats, slippers, kimono, etc. Sitting on the floor and sleeping there as well is a bit hard on our ancient frames but once one gets used to things, a lovely, lovely place and a thoroughly enjoyable experience. Ironically, one of first places in our entire trip that has free WiFi!
Tuesday, May 15th
Rail pass is certainly the way to travel around this country. System works like a charm. Need to buy them before you leave home if you choose to travel this way. Highly recommend this comfortable and very, very efficient way to move from place to place. You may know this but it was new to us. One lines up, on the platform, to board the particular car printed on your reservation ticket. Much of this indicated on platform surface and electronic schedule boards above.. As well, at certain stations, squads of cleaners board the train about ten minutes or so before it departs to give it a thorough going over. One of the cleaners stands by the door with a plastic trash bag and bows to each passenger as that person puts their garbage in the receptacle. Once the Dust Busters are aboard the train doors close until they emerge, the bathrooms swabbed, the upholstery brushed and the chrome polished, one imagines. Lining up next to the exit door their crew leader stands in front of them and then they all bow, in unison. Quite a show! Still, trains are spotless. One of the endlessly fascinating aspects of a truly remarkable culture.
Another example comes to mind and occurred the day after we arrived in Tokyo when I visited a huge electronics department store to buy a sim card for my iPad. Was there just after it opened and was almost immediately accompanied to counter where I could make my purchase. Had to walk past twenty or thirty other employees, (Canada's stores could learn from this service model!), all standing at their respective counters/posts, and each one bowed to me as I walked past. I felt like Royalty, never mind the Millionaires! However, think I might have a permanent "rictus" grin on my face once we are back at The Island Inn. Everyone is so damned polite that you end up mimicking said behaviour and thanking people for thanking you. This usually involves two or three individuals as often first person approached has no English, "Sorry, wait please," and then another speaker arrives and on it goes! Must say that we really have had little difficulty, in spite of our inability to speak Japanese, as everyone is keen to help and genuinely friendly.
It was raining, lightly, in the morning, so after another scrumptious breakfast, we went back to our room, Cora Lee to read and I to scribe. Around noon we bought another day pass on the Tourist Bus and made for the museum which had been closed the day before. We spent a truly wonderful two hours or more at the Fukushima Prefecture Museum. Must say I could hardly believe my eyes when we first viewed the stunningly informative, permanent exhibition displays, in spite of the fact that essentially all of the signage and labels or larger panels provided explanations in English. (I think one of the reasons for my surprise was the fact that from the outside the building seemed rather nondescript. We had passed it quite a few times in the course of our wanderings and although it has a massive footprint, it never struck me as architecturally interesting at all. Inside, however, was a completely different matter and it's cathedral ceilings, warm, striking panelling and inviting, truly educative displays simply worked, harmoniously, together.
One of the most striking features of the museum, as a whole, was that, more often than not, the artifacts exhibited were placed in inspiringly meaningful contexts: historical, political, geographical and topographical. For example, pottery, cutting tools, arrow and spear heads, just some of the many I could use, we're displayed together with photographs of the archeological sites from which they were unearthed, even specific sections of these sites, (dwelling foundations, burial mounds, middens on lake shores and river banks, etc.), so that one could have a much clearer picture, not only of how these artifacts were used but also how and where they were eventually discovered. Furthermore, numerous colour coded maps showed the location of such sites, across the prefecture and the country as a whole. Don't think I've ever enjoyed myself in a museum as much. Funnily enough, not really having to worry about reading any of the text associated with the displays, frees one to simply absorb the pieces and let them speak for themselves.
A number of school classes were on field trips while we were there so it was quite a hoot to observe the elementary/junior high students, running from display to display, trying to answer their assigned quizzes. Just like school kids everywhere but perhaps more polite. Many times we would be surrounded, at a given exhibit, by a pack and peppered with "Hellos"! Don't think they really knew what a treasure their community had provided for them. Just a fun outing, I'm sure. Of course I don't begrudge them their youth but I was so taken with the collections, their arrangement and display features, that I suppose I wanted the same experience for them. Most, if not all of the students were wearing uniforms and the lads of one school looked more like naval cadets with their military style jackets and silver buttons. Another aspect of this militaristic society, I suppose. Such an extraordinary mix of regimented conformity and exquisite aesthetic sensibility. I know this is an over-simplification but the broad strokes of these aspects of the culture are everywhere.
Back on the bus after our cultural obligations were fulfilled and we rode it to the end of the line, Stop # 27, Higashiyama Onsen, a small town, more a village, to the north of Aizu by only ten minutes or so. Most of the dwellings and other buildings are situated along the bank of the Okawa River, a gorgeous mountain torrent. Place is known for its hot-springs and people have been frequenting to one of the mineral pools, Ashino-maki Onsen since the Edo period. We wanted to spend a couple of hours relaxing in the restorative waters to rid ourselves of the stress and pressure of our demanding days, Dear Reader!
At the Tourist Kiosk right next to the bus stop we were able to find the name of a hotel which offered private baths. We could have gone to the public baths, (many facilities offer both options), but since these are segregated, (one bathes in the nude in this situation), we decided on the former. I was especially keen on the latter, as initially, I thought spa was mixed!) With the name of the hotel written on the map we received, we enjoyed about a ten minute stroll along the one narrow street leading past all the other resorts. Quite a bit cooler than in town, but not unpleasantly so. Rain had stopped and the still wet foliage was a brilliant green. Not many people about and only the soothing sound of the rushing water. Quite spectacular views of the steep mountain sides and the tree bowered river
Found the hotel without any difficulty and after paying 1,500 yen per person, ($18.90 for one hour), we were handed towels and shown to the elevator which would take us down to the floor level on which a number of the private salons were located. Leaving our shoes on the stands provided, at the entranceway, we padded, in our bare feet, to our room. Bathrooms are separate, off the hallway which runs the course of the wing where these salons are located.
Very comfortably appointed. Subdued lighting and music if one so desires. There is a simple, hand held shower and one washes before entering either of the two large wooden, rectangular tubs. This area is outside, under cover, overlooking the river and the opposite, heavily forested bank, a sheer wall of shimmering, iridescent green. When we arrived I put my hand in the larger of the two tubs and it didn't seem all that hot. Cora Lee had showered before me so she stepped into that tub first. Didn't take her but a few seconds to retreat, to sit on the wide edge of the tub as the temperature was far warmer than my fingers had indicated. I guess I only tested liquid near the surface, quite a bit cooler than the rest of the tub, as we soon discovered!
Anyway, we eased our way into full submersion mode and the sensation was simply divine, as anyone who has experienced a similar bath can attest. We spent the next 45 minutes moving between each tub, (not really sure if one was hotter than the other), taking cool showers and lots of sips of the ice water from the thermos brought to us shortly after we arrived. Smaller one had an incline on the end farthest from the glass balcony so it was extremely comfortable to lie in, almost fully extended, although I preferred to rest my feet on the edge for fear my toes would pop! Sound of the river and the lobster pot water worked their magic and we chatted in par boiled ecstasy until about ten minutes before our time was up in order to shower and cool down. Initially, we both thought that an hour seemed like not enough time but once we'd been in the tubs we realized that it was more than enough.
Pink and scrubbed we returned to the lobby to browse the gift shot and then strolled back to the bus stop. Returning to town we alighted at Stop # 4 in search of the restaurant which served French cuisine. Close to where we thought it should be I asked a young school girl for directions. She studied the map but couldn't help. We thanked her anyway and kept walking. A minute or so later she came rushing back, indicating that she had found the place and took us there. It was only a short distance away and we would have found it, I'm sure, but we were touched that she was so helpful.
We took a look at the menu, all in Japanese, and laughed, as did the woman who had handed it to us, understanding our dilemma. She called a young man from the kitchen and he explained the offerings in quite good, if halting English. Taken with the possibilities we asked if we required reservations and were told that we didn't. Dinner was served until 8:00pm so we said goodbye and made for our hotel. At least Coriandre did as I wanted to return to the scene of the crime, to the sake tavern, to see if I could find out the name of the brand we had enjoyed the night before.
I knew that the bar was only a few minutes away and when I approached it I noticed one of the regulars outside, talking on his cell. We waved to each other and I went inside to be greeted by the owner. After a bit of mimed explanation I was able to convey my wish to know the name of the sake we'd celebrated with and Matsuda Kazuhiro, (I asked him to write down his name, as well as that of the lovely lady in the kitchen, Kozama Mariko), aka Mandrake the Magician, wrote down the name of the sake in question as well as directions, on my city map, to the shop where I could purchase a bottle. The cell phone guy was back in his seat by then and offered me a drink from his bottle of Shochu. Thanking him, I declined as I had to make for the sake shop before it closed as well as pick up some picnic fixings for train next day. Waving goodbye I exited, saying "Wow" to elicit peals of laughter from the staff and regulars alike!
Few minutes later I found the store, with the help of a number of friendly locals, last chap, a cook at a nearbye restaurant, walked me almost to the door as he was taking a smoke break. Very pleasant couple in the store found me the Suehiro sake and I bought two bottles, a large one for one of the parties Toshi is planning for our arrival, and a smaller gift bottle for one of the directors of the company she works for who has made his family "folk house"/cottage, available to us over the last weekend we will be in Japan.
On to Lion D'or, a supermarket chain, a block away, to buy oranges, cherry tomatoes, cokes, small package of smoked pork and a couple of sandwich buns, as well as some pre-packaged sushi rolls as Cora Lee said she was peckish. Back to hotel to change quickly and sip my tea-cup, (only drinking vessels we have), of Water Wheel Petit Verdot, remainder of bottle from night before, while nibbling on the tasty rice rolls. Lovely stroll back to the restaurant although it was still drizzling and we needed our umbrellas, on loan from the hotel. Once there we were shown to our table, one of three, so it is a very small establishment. Turned out that the young man who helped us with the menu earlier is the chef and his mother was the woman we first met. His father also waits during dinner service as he is a "salary man" and not able to help with lunch. The parents have obviously bank-rolled the operation as the restaurant has only been open for three years , just after the chef had graduated from culinary school. Before that he had studied architecture at university. Although he graduated and could practice his passion is food. Not sure what his grandfather thinks as he is an architect, according to the grandson.
At any rate, it was a marvellous experience, from every point of view, a wonderful pairing of French cuisine and Japanese artistry. Five course meal with three different wines, one apperatif, a Japanese plum wine, delicious, then a Chardonnay, (had ordered a glass of Sauvignon Blanc but there was only enough for one glass so chef presented it to us a complimentary drink), and a Sangiovese. All very respectable and drinkable. Amuse-bouche was Japanese conch, with rice for CL, toasted, thinly sliced baguette for me; salad with very tasty home-made pickled vegetables, (the father's); fish, tempura pastry encrusted prawn, its beady eyes staring at me as I enjoyed its succulent flesh, tomatoe flavoured fresh bread, while Cora Lee was served a gluten-free dish of two large scallops and similarly sized mussels, warm riced mixed with chunks of red and yellow pepper; meat, some local specialty beef, extremely tender, on a bed of mashed potatoes, garnished with a few stalks of crunchy asparagus; dessert, meringue cookies with an egg-sized dollop of miso ice-cream, garnished with tiny mint leaves, same for me but my cookies were wheat-based. I had a coffee before we paid our bill, 12,700 yen, ($160), so a reasonably pricey meal but well worth it, especially as an anniversary outing. We thanked our attentive and charming hosts and strolled back to the hotel, umbrellas furled as it had stopped raining.
Back in our room Coriandre read in bed while I scribed until about 11:00pm when she almost leapt out of bed and made for the bathroom where she was terribly, and I mean terribly, sick to her stomach. Whether it was something during dinner which didn't agree with her or the sushi I bought at the grocery store, we'll probably never know for sure. Since she mentioned that she couldn't have wheat she was presented, as I mentioned above, with a slightly different dish for fish course. I tasted part of one of the scallops but not the mussel. That is the only thing we didn't both have so perhaps they were off. Such a shame as it was probably one of best dinners, of its kind, that we have ever had.
Between bouts of vomiting and diarrhea she was bemoaning this very fact so a least she was trying to keep her sense of humour under such awful and uncomfortable circumstances. Trying to keep her spirits up I suggested she ask for a refund on the fairly expensive anti-diarrhea medication she bought and took before leaving for Hong Kong. Unfortunately, she was not amused, glaring at me though she could barely lift her head from the porcelain throne, Dear Reader!
Sad to report that her ordeal was not over until well past 1:00pm, even though by then her poor tummy has done its best to empty itself. Before she finally curled up in the foetal position, I counted three more trips to the bathroom, firing on all cylinders like a well maintained V-8! Brought back the unpleasant memory of the case of food poisoning I suffered in August 2010, in Stockholm, the night before we flew to Berlin. I could hardly move the next day. At 11:00am the following morning we had reservations for Nagano so I silently hoped she would be well enough to travel. Otherwise I feared I'd have to take her cash and leave her at a bus shelter somewhere or simply check-out to let the maids find her. I'm sure they would take care of her, wouldn't they?
To be continued...
Hi Stinkster!
Grand that you and Robo Ray finally were able to ride. No wind here in Japan. Next cycling frontier! Actually, saw more bikes in Aizu Wakamatsu than anywhere else on trip. Easy to rent as well. Under other circumstances, I'd have loved to get around that way. Very, very do-able, at least in the country towns, from what we've seen. No helmets anywhere but nifty bike locks. A mechanism which attaches to rear wheel struts, behind saddle. A key activated mechanism allows a curved bar to complete the lock when the bike is at rest. It retracts into a sleeve when you want to ride. Only drawback is that your bike isn't locked to something so technically it could be carried away. Not an issue with the sort of bikes we've noticed but might not work with higher end models.
Ray would love this country as there are family gardens everywhere. Green onions coming up everywhere and I'm tempted to steal a handfull everytime we pass by a plot close to where we are walking. Sign up at Ocean Cement on GI. With your experience you'll be a supervisor in no time flat and be able to pay for an extended trip to Japan.(You should definitely visit, in my opinion.) Better yet, hijack a gravel barge and get Barnacle Branko to sail it across the Pacific. Who needs charts when he's at the helm? Bring 'Orrible along as ballast!
Arrived here yesterday to stay in a traditional Japanese inn, sleeping on tatami mats, slippers, kimono, etc. Sitting on the floor and sleeping there as well is a bit hard on our ancient frames but once one gets used to things, a lovely, lovely place and a thoroughly enjoyable experience. Ironically, one of first places in our entire trip that has free WiFi! Older couple who run it are absolutely delightful. Can't do enough for us, speaking Japanese all the while as if the more quickly they express themselves, the faster we'll catch on, the more we'll understand. We all end up laughing together at the absudity of the situation. The charming woman will say something and then immediately hide her mouth with one of her hands, realizing that we can't understand a word of what she is saying. Nevertheless, on they both go. That being said, it really is amazing how much you can communicate with gestures, miming actions and pointing at pictures. Basically, Charades! Nothing is lost in translation because we gain huge amounts of comic relief with every attempted conversation.
After a gorgeous soak in one of the hot tubs here, (Outdoor one was busy so we used an indoor one.), we had a very tasty meal at a small place but a few minutes up the road from where we are staying. Everything made by an elderly man while we sat at the counter: rice balls with seaweed, stuffed with salmon and green onions; half a small baked "American" eggplant with some sort of sweet potatoe sauce, we think; wonderful boneless chicken Tempura and two large, almost custard like pieces of tofu in a yummy broth sprinkled with thinly sliced green onions. I had a large bottle of Sapporo beer but Cora Lee stayed with a small Coke for her tummy's sake. Chef's wife, our waitress, presented us with a newspaper page sized sheet detailing the family's Samurai history when we left. The Sisterhood is truly an international, not-so- secret society! Walls of the place itself are covered with pictures of Suomo wrestlers, both prints and photogrpahs, historical and present day, so this motif provided quite a decor. Had to hustle Cora Lee out the door before she started to re-arrange some of the posters and other hangings! The chef, though kindly looking, had quite a few sharp knives at his disposal from what we'd glimpsed of his food preparation!
Only complaint here is that we both miss the heated toilette shower seats we've encountered everywhere else we've stayed so far. Funny how quickly one adapts to something one finds strange to begin with and then misses immediately when not availbale. Inn here is an old style dwelling, part of its charm, of course, so fixtures are pretty basic. I have aleady thought of stealing one from last place we stay at in Tokyo, (wrapped in pool towels accidentally "borrowed" from hotels in Melbourne and Darwinto), to bring it back to the Island Inn to install in the guest bathroom after Chloe moves into the Co-op! For the next round of Japanese boarders. I'm reminded of the stories about the Russain soldiers at the end of WW II, many illiterate farm boys, who removed light bulbs and taps from buildings and homes they looted, to re-attach them to their walls and ceilings when back in their home villages, to be genuinely puzzled that they didn't produce water and light once installed!
Better send this or I'll be getting the chop from The Samurai Sisterhood. Fondestos to you and your Geisha Goils! Cheers, Il Conduttore "We don't need no Stinkin' Shower Toilette Seats" San!
Hi Sylvia and Ray!
Grand that you and Whirlygig were finally able to ride.
Hi Big Al!
The German daughter should have given the iPad to one of the orangutans at the zoo, somewhere in the States, using them in an interspecies communication project, I gather. Just like their human counterparts, the young primates take to the new technology while the older "apes" will havenothing to do with it!
Looking forward to,meeting our friend, Toshi, in half an hour or so now.hours. Cora Lee wasmquite fussed as we had to change trains at Nagoya about 45 minutes ago. We onlyhad 9 minutes to find right platform. From past experience, in some stations there are not always elevators between levels and even if they are, it can be difficult to find right one! We changied to a bullet train which will have us in Osaka by 6:03pm. Had we known, we could have stayed on the slower train, a Limited Express, to arrive at 7:19pm, which we caught in Nogano. However we had arranged to meet Toshi at 6:15pm. Fortunatley I have five bottles of expensive sake in my case in the event that we missed our connection! We'd just have to send Chloe an email to phone Toshi as Cora Lee would never be able to use a cell phone here since she can't even make a local call at home with one. As it was, I almost lost here when she tookmescalator to platform #16 and I took the stairs as they were closer. I have been carrying her bag, when needed, as her foot is still tender. At any rate, she almost boarded the train going in the opposite direction, on Platform #17! One way to escape paying credit card bills! Keep losing coverage as we are passing through tunnel after tunnel after tunnel, all of them very long, so better send message along. Cheers, Patrizzio!
PS: Cora Lee was snoring so loudly a few minutes ago, that the passengers around us asked the Conductor to throw her off the train! She got quite nasty when he tapped her on the shoulder and, thinking it was me, grabbed him by the throat, and gave him a good shake. We now have the entire car to ourselves with all the cokes and chips we want. Pays to be assertive! The Alpha Sisterhood reigns!
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